From Brussels to Buenos Aires

In the heart of British Winter, I embarked for a country renowned for its steak, vibrant culture and fast changing economic and political situation. Argentina being 7,378 miles from the small village I had lived all my life came as a huge adventure and daunting move, but upon reflection the most transformative five months of my life.

Economic recession

Upon arriving in Buenos Aires, I was struck by the change in climate and economic situation. I had been warned before going to bring US dollars, but this did not prepare me for the rapid rate of inflation and increasing poverty Argentinians were experiencing. With a dubious new president who had interesting moral standing but was informed by his economic and social background things were meant to be changing for good in Argentina. But what I witnessed was an economy crumbling under a new presidency that was struggling to put policies in place and recover from a corrupt Justicialist government.

Argentinian culture and European influence

Speaking to an Argentine friend of mine, I brought up the political situation considering the protests we were experiencing at the time. Sat next to her on a bus which was taking us up 9 de Julio (the widest thoroughfare which runs through the heart of the city) she articulated her views on Milei. “Many Argentinians are not keen on Milei but compared to the last government he was our last chance.” She made out that there was no black and white when it came to politics, but Milei brought hope for her for the recovery of a corrupt government. He was an idealist, but she hoped he would bring economic reform to Argentina.

Milei and a changing political scene

On June 12, 2024, Argentina’s Senate passed Milei’s reforms and the new bill which spurred a polemic reaction from the public. Anti-government protestors clashed with Argentinean police forces in Buenos Aires, and other cities across Argentina. Leading police to fire tear gas and water cannons at demonstrators outside the National Congress of Argentina.

Despite the riots, I remember really noticing the economic situation changing in April, prices were higher but stable and there was talk of the first 10,000-peso note being brought in. To put things in context that would be a close equivalent to a £10 note as the highest bill at the time was 2000 peso. Since the current government took over, it is encouraging to see net international reserves have grown by USD 9.5 billion. However, in March 2024 57.4% of the country was living in poverty, the highest rate in Argentina over the past 20 years.

Beautiful Buenos Aires

Despite all this, I was struck by the resilience and openness of the Argentines. The city truly came to life at night which took some adjusting to, whether you were dancing at a milonga, drinking fernet with friends or chanting along to a football match Argentinians were always making the most of their situation and celebrating their culture. A truly rich culture, despite Buenos Aires only being officially founded in 1580, that embodied itself in the people and the layout of the city.

Safety

What struck me as a young expat living in Buenos Aires was the amount of opportunity to engage with fellow expats as well as the friendliness of local Argentinians. Well, for the most part, as I did seem to stick out as a foreigner which made me aware of how vulnerable I was upon first moving to the city. Yet, I honestly say to people, living in Argentina felt safer than my student accommodation in the heart of Brussels which was a ten-minute walk from Schaerbeek and the Gare du Nord station notorious for its violence and crime inflicted by drug gangs operating in the area. Compared to living in Palermo, it was a vastly different experience and the liveliness of the street often full of people into the early hours of the
morning was a constant reassurance in Buenos Aires.

If you are torn, very much like I was, about taking the step of going to South America instead of Europe I cannot urge you enough to take the challenge. You will be surprised at how putting yourself out of your comfort zone can allow you to grow in ways you never imagined.

Admittedly, when I first boarded my long-haul flight, I was petrified having left the safety of my family and security but my experience in Argentina is one which has both shaped the person I am today and given me a wider perspective of the world in ways I never imagined.

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Miranda Sturdy

Hi! I am Miranda, a final year Modern Languages and Cultures (MLAC) student at Durham. When I am not studying for my degree, you can probably find me taking part in some of Durham's societies. For my Year Abroad, I studied with UCLouvain Saint-Louis Bruxelles and worked as a teaching assistant in Buenos Aires, Argentina.

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